CARSTENSZ PYRAMID –
4,884 metres / 16,023 feet
Location : West Papua Province, Indonesia
Range : Sudirman Mountains
Coordinates : 4°5′S 137°11′ECoordinates: 4°5′S 137°11′E
GENERAL INFORMATION:
Carstensz Pyramid is the highest mountain on island of the New Guinea, on the greater Australian continent and in Oceania. It's the highest point between the Himalayas and the Andes.
The peak is located in what is variously called the Sudirman Range or the Dugunduguoo, in the western central highlands of Papua - Indonesian. While Puncak Jaya’s peak is free of glaciers, there are several on its slopes, including the Carstensz Glacier, the Meren Glacier, and Northwall Firn. Being equatorial, there is little variation in the mean temperature during the year (around 0.5°C) and the glaciers fluctuate on seasonal basis only slightly.
Evidence from satellite imagery demonstrates that most of the glaciers atop the mountain are retreating rapidly and some have disappeared altogether the last 20 years
Puncak Jaya, sometimes called Mount Carstensz or the Carstensz Pyramid, is the highest mountain on the island of New Guinea, on the Australia-New Guinea continent and in Oceania. It is the highest point between the Himalaya and the Andes and the highest island peak in the world. The peak is located in what is variously called the Sudirman Range or the Dugunduguoo, in the western central highlands of Papua, the Indonesian western half of the island, and is the highest peak in the country.
HISTORY
Puncak Jaya was originally called 'Carstensz Pyramid', after Dutch explorer Jan Carstensz who first sighted the glaciers on the peak of the mountain on a rare clear day in 1623 (Carstensz was ridiculed in Europe when he said he had seen snow near the equator) This name is still used among mountaineers Although the snowfield of Puncak Jaya was reached as early as 1909 by a Dutch explorer, Hendrik A. Lorentz, the peak was not climbed until 1962, by an expedition led by the Austrian mountaineer Heinrich Harrer (of Seven Years in Tibet fame) with three friends, Temple, Kippax and Huizenga.
PERMIT AND ACCESS
As you visit Irian Jaya, you will be requested a police permit or in bahasa "Surat Jalan". To Climb Carstensz Pyramid we have to have a security clearence from Indonesian Army (BAIS TNI). Please provide 2 photographs, 4 x 6 size, with red background and a copy of passport when you register the expedition.
“These documents needed at least 60 DAYS before your expedition start“.
The Carstensz Pyramid Expedition have two option expeditions programme: Classic Route trekking from Ilaga Village and Private Helicopter directly go to Base Camp Danau – Danau Valley.
All these expeditions programme supported by our expert mountain guide climbers to lead you to Ca
rstensz Pyramid. As our climbers guide have good track record to handle the local TV (filming trip) to Carstensz Pyramid and Puncak Jaya. They have qualified of mountaineering and climbing escorted experiences.
EXPEDITION ITINERARY:
Private Charter Helicopter
DAY 01 : ARRIVAL JAKARTA
DAY 02 : DEPARTURE BIAK
DAY 03 : 
ARRIVAL BIAK – NABIRE
DAY 04 : ARRIVAL NABIRE
DAY 05 – 09 : NABIRE – BASECAMP
by Helicopter Transfer and ACLIMATIZATION AT BASE CAMP
DAY 10 – 11 : SUMMIT DAYS
Ascending to Carstensz Pyramid and Victory Peak – Ngga Pulu Peak
DAY 12 – 13 :Carstensz Base Camp–Nabire, stay at Hotel for rest of the day–Biak
DAY 14 : BIAK - JAKARTA
DAY 15 : DEPARTURE
Included on the expedition cost:
• All required permits in Jakarta and West Papua (Security Clearance & Traveling Permit)
• Domestic Flights (Jakarta – Biak – Nabire )
• Airport Transfers in Jakarta, Biak & Nabire
• Chartered Helicopter to Carstensz Pyramid BC and return
• Accomodation based on twin share in Jakarta, Biak and Nabire
• Meals as per the itinerary (B: Breakfast, L: Lunch, D: Dinner)
• Accommodation at Hotel/Guesthouse indicated on the itinerary based Twin Share/Double.
• Camping gear (Sharing Dome Tent & Kitchen Equipment)
• Experienced mountain guide & Cook
• Fixed rope on carstensz pyramid wall
• Camping, dining, and cooking equipment
Excluded:
• Insurances
• Airport tax
• Overweight on all flights
• Personal climbing and camping equipments
• Extra food and beverages
• Personal expenses (laundry, phone call, hotel’s minibar)
• Evacuation or rescue
• Any expenses due to the flight delay or cancel
Departure Date of Expedition 2007
| Date of Expedition | Route Expedition |
|
April 07 - 21th, 2007 | Helicopter Transfer - Nabire |
| May 07- 21th, 2007 | Helicopter Transfer - Nabire |
|
August 01-Sept 05th, 2007 | Classic Trek - Ilaga village |
|
Sept 26-October 31, 2007 | Classic Trek - Ilaga village |
| Nov 19-Dec 3rd, 2007 | Helicopter Transfer - Nabire |
| * Prices are subject to change based on departure date. * Copy Passport are required to apply permit documents, please attached on your email inquiry while join to our Carstensz Pyramid expedition. * The Cost Expedition will send as confidence email. | |
23. 8.–14.9.2007 – trekking climbing Carstensz expedition ...OPEN
20.10.– 4.11.2007 – helicopters climbing Carstensz expedition .. OPEN
20.11.– 12.12.2007 – trekking climbing Carstensz expedition ....OPEN
29. 2.–22.3.2008 – trekking climbing Carstensz expedition ..OPEN
Classic Route Trek from Ilaga village
DAY 01 : ARRIVAL JAKARTA
DAY 02 : DEPARTURE TO BIAK ISLAND
DAY 03 : ARRIVAL BIAK ISLAND
Stay at Non Star Hotel
DAY 04 : DEPARTURE BIAK TO NABIRE
Stay at Hotel
DAY 05 : NABIRE TO ILAGA VILLAGE
Charter Flight, Twin Otter Air Craft
DAY 06 – 15: EXPEDITION ROUTE by classic trek
Ilaga Village to Base Camp, Danau – Danau Valley
DAY 16 – 19 : CARSTENSZ BASE CAMP Acclimatization at Danau – Danau Valley
DAY 20 – 22: SUMMIT DAYS Ascending to Carstensz Pyramid and Victory Peak – Ngga Pulu Peak
DAY 23 – 29 : DESCEND TREK TO ILAGA VILLAGE
DAY 30 – 31 : RETURN FLY TO NABIRE by Charter Flight
DAY 32 – 34 : RETURN FLY TO BIAK ISLAND – JAKARTA
EXPEDITION COST : $ 10,000 USD /person
To join our International Carstensz Pyramid Expedition which required min 6 People (excluded all ticket fares, charter flight and emergency evacuation rescue by helicopter).
Included on the expedition cost:
• All required permits in Jakarta and West Papua (Security Clearance & Traveling Permit)
• Domestic Flights (Jakarta – Biak – Nabire )
• Airport Transfers in Jakarta, Biak & Nabire
• Chartered Helicopter to Carstensz Pyramid BC and return
• Accomodation based on twin share in Jakarta, Biak and Nabire
• Meals as per the itinerary (B: Breakfast, L: Lunch, D: Dinner)
• Accommodation at Hotel/Guesthouse indicated on the itinerary based Twin Share/Double.
• Accommodation at Home Stay with Basic Facilities
• Camping gear (Sharing Dome Tent & Kitchen Equipment)
• Experienced mountain guide & Cook
• Porters during trekking (villagers)
• Fixed rope on carstensz pyramid wall
• Camping, dining, and cooking equipment
Excluded:
• Insurances
• Airport tax
• Overweight on all flights
• Personal climbing and camping equipments
• Extra food and beverages
• Personal expenses (laundry, phone call, hotel’s minibar)
• Evacuation or rescue
• Any expenses due to the flight delay or cancel
EXPEDITION COST
Due to high cost on helicopter, our International Carstensz Pyramid Expedition requires minimum 6 persons in every departure. Please contact us for the expedition cost
Included on the expedition cost:
• All required permits in Jakarta and West Papua (Security Clearance
& Traveling Permit)
• Domestic Flights (Jakarta – Biak – Nabire)
• Airport Transfers in Jakarta, Biak & Nabire
• Chartered Helicopter to Carstensz Pyramid BC and return
• Accomodation based on twin share in Jakarta, Biak and Nabire
• Meals as per the itinerary (B: Breakfast, L: Lunch, D: Dinner)
• Accommodation at Hotel/Guesthouse indicated on the itinerary based Twin Share/Double.
• Camping gear (Sharing Dome Tent & Kitchen Equipment)
• Experienced mountain guide & Cook
• Fixed rope on carstensz pyramid wall
Excluded:
• Insurances
• Airport tax
• Overweight on all flights
• Personal climbing and camping equipments
• Extra food and beverages
• Personal expenses (laundry, phone call, hotel’s minibar)
• Evacuation or rescue
• Any expenses due to the flight delay or cancel
HOW TO JOIN THE EXPEDITION
To book the expedition with us, please send your request to us info@lombokmarine.com
P
ayment
To confirm your booking, we require a deposit payment of USD 2,500 / Person in order in order to secure permits for the expedition and deposit on charter helicopter. Due to long procedures of permit application, we required deposit payment to be paid lately 60 days prior to the expedition departure. Once permits are gained, there are no refund on your deposit which has been paid to us.
While the remaining balance of the expedition cost, (including airfares – if booked through us) due on 14 days before expedition departure.
Refunds
Refunds are not made for unused services, except those which can be recovered from airlines for unused flights and these may be claimed though us (if the flight bookings made through us) or to the tra
vel agencies who arranged your flight bookings.
Cancellation
If you cancel your booking there is no refund on each deposit and balance payment.
Changes to the Itinerary
Carstensz Pyramid Expeditions are organized many months in advance and it may become necessary to make alteration on your plan. Where practical, we will advise you of such changes before you depart to Indonesia, although occasionally we may be forced to make changes en route due to the causes beyond our control. You should keep in touch with us.
Travel Insurances
All of our tours are not covered by travel insurance. We recommend that you purchase travel insurance which covers loss of deposits, cancellati
on charges, luggage claims, medical expenses and others. The travel insurance should be arranged at the travel agencies in your country before you depart to Indonesia.
WHAT TO BRING
Headwear
1 sun hat (it must shade the eyes and nose). 1 balaclava (wool, polypropylene). 1 wool or fleece hat. 1 pair glacier glasses with side protection (and a spare). 1 neck gaiter.
Handwear
2 pairs liner gloves (poly thin). 1 pair medium weight fleece gloves. 1 pair goretex wind shells for mittens. 1 pair wool or fleece mittens. 1 pair overmitts.
Upper-Lower Body
1 expedition down parka with hood (-20 F). 1 windproof outer jacket with hood (Gore-tex)
1 poly/fleece jacket. 1 expedition weight polypropylene shirt. 2 lightweight, long sleeve polypropylene shirts. 2 heavy polypropylene long underwear (tops and bottoms). 2 t-shirts for lower elevations. 1 pair wind/rain pants (with side zips). 1 pair fleece pants (side zipper). 1 long cotton pant for trekking (legs zip off to become shorts). 1 nylon shorts
Footwear
1 pair of trekking boots (Gore-tex) and 1 quality sport shoes . 1 pair of sandals
1 pair insulated super-gaiters. 2-3 pair of wool socks and polypropylene socks. 3 pairs polypropylene, wool or similar socks.
Sleeping Gear: 1 down or synthetic sleeping bag (-20C).
Pack
High quality back pack approx. 70-80 liters. Day pack for approach hike and summit day. 1 Large duffel bag (7000+cu.in) with lock to be carried to Base Camp.
Climbing Equipment
Sit Harness, 1 pair Jumar, Descenduer figur of eight, 2 Carabineer Screw Gate & 5 Snap gate, 5 Webbing 1,5 meter, 2 prusik, Climbing Helmet, Head Lamp with 3 alkaline battery sets
Others
Sun screen and lip protection (UV rating of 20 SPF or more). Metal thermos bottle, 1000ml. Toiletry kit. Water bottle. Camera and film. Pocket knife (mid size). Book and walkman to spend time in tent. Simple first aid kit. Pee bottle - 1 qt. capacity, wide mouth. Insect repellant coating for hike in clothes. Passport. Cash. Copies of relevant documents (maps, directions, itinerary, etc... all in plastic bags). Journal with pens. Casual clothes for walking around, going to dinner. Small Indonesia dictionary with travel phrases.
CARSTENSZ ROAD
It is still most difficult to get a climbing permit for the Carstensz Pyramid. The other obstacle is the difficulty in getting to the mountain and Base Camp. There are only two options. Either you have to undertake several days long trekking to Carstensz Pyramid (5–7 days) from the most usual starting place – Ilaga, or you can use very expensive helicopter to get to the Zebra Whal Camp. Base Camp lies in the Lake Valley, but some climbers decide to camp directly under the wall in the Yellow Valley. We describe this in greater detail on the How to go page.
Currently there are three climbing routes leading to the top of the Carstensz Pyramid. If you use modern technical equipment one of the routes can be marked as “normal”, and the other two as significantly more difficult. Most climbers who have tried to reach the top of the Carstensz Pyramid take the “normal” route. There is a rich history to climbing Carstensz.
The Normal Route (Harrer’s Route)
The ascent and the descent take roughly 12 – 15 hours. The difficulty is 3 – 4 UIIA. The most difficult section is just below the summit. The wall, which so far sloped under a moderate 10 – 15 degrees, now changes into approximately 80 meters (260 ft) long vertical degree of difficulty 5 – 5+ UIIA. The rock is good, and rarely loose. This wall does not usually pose any problem. This is followed by a progress to the summit on a jagged edge. The climber is faced here with other problems contributing to its difficulty, an approximately ten meters high, smooth overhang wall (difficulty 6 – 7+ UIIA). It can be bypassed, or one can fix a rope to its wall. Less experienced climbers can surmount the wall using jumars, and other difficult sections towards the summit can be also quite well secured. You need long ropes for the way down. A large part of the Carstensz Pyramid must be roped down.
East Ridge
This route offers lies in difficulty in between the Normal Route and the American Direct. You can expect a long ascent. It is mostly scrambling. However, there are some narrower parts, which are more difficult. You have to also beware of loose rocks.
The American Direct
This route leads straight up to the summit. It is a very exposed route. It offers great climbing experience, but it is the most difficult one. The bad news is that the difficulty increases as you get closer to the summit – the worst part is the steep
If you are lucky with the weather, sometimes from the summit of the Carstensz Pyramid, one can even see the sea. Unfortunately we haven’t been so lucky yet to see the sea from the summit. We’ve only looked into the golden mine, into the Grasberg crater, at the Nga Pulu iceberg, and the neighboring summits and rain forest. On the top of the Carstensz Pyramid, we have experienced sun, rain, and snow. No wonder, it is only 4 degrees from the equator. Although some 15 to 30 centimeters of fresh snow in the height lower than 5000 meters (16400 ft) only several degrees far from the equator is not exactly a usual thing.